Your November Adenium Checklist: Final Prep Before Dormancy

November marks a critical transition period for adenium growers across most of the United States. By now, your plants should be safely indoors if you live in zones 4-8, but there's still important work to do as your desert roses settle into their winter rest period. This final preparation sets the stage for healthy dormancy and vigorous spring growth. Let's walk through exactly what you need to do this month to ensure your adeniums sail smoothly through the winter ahead.

Critical Reminder: Your Plants Should Already Be Inside

If you're reading this in November and live in USDA hardiness zones 4-8 (which covers most of the northern two-thirds of the United States), your adeniums should already be indoors. This isn't a suggestion—it's essential for plant survival.

Why the urgency? By November, nighttime temperatures across zones 4-8 regularly drop below the critical 50°F threshold, and frost becomes a real possibility. Even a single night at 40°F or below can cause cellular damage to adeniums that may not show up immediately but compromises the plant's health through winter. Frost is instantly fatal to these tropical plants.

If you haven't brought plants in yet: Do it immediately, today if possible. Even if daytime temperatures feel mild, nighttime lows are dangerous. Check your local forecast—if any night in the next week will drop below 50°F, your window for safe outdoor time has closed.

The acclimation concern: Ideally, you should have gradually acclimated your plants from outdoor to indoor conditions over 10-14 days in October. If you're doing an emergency move now, understand your plants may experience some shock. They might drop leaves more dramatically than they would have with gradual transition. This is stressful but not fatal—just minimize additional stress by placing them in the brightest indoor location available and resisting the urge to fuss with them. Let them adjust.

For zones 9-10: If you live in southern California, southern Texas, or Florida (zones 9-10), you may still have your adeniums outside, though you should monitor forecasts carefully. Unusual cold snaps can strike even warm zones. Have a plan to bring plants in or protect them if temperatures threaten to drop near 50°F.

Last Outdoor Watering: Getting It Right

If you brought your plants indoors in October (as you should have), you've already transitioned to indoor watering protocols. But understanding the final outdoor watering guidelines helps you set up success for the indoor period.

The Last Outdoor Watering Principle: Your final outdoor watering should occur 5-7 days before bringing plants inside. This timing ensures the soil has dried considerably but the plants aren't severely stressed. You want them to transition indoors in good condition—not freshly soaked, not bone dry.

Why not water just before moving indoors? Wet soil creates several problems. First, it makes pots much heavier to move. Second, wet soil in pots that are suddenly in lower light with cooler temperatures and less air circulation stays wet far too long, increasing root rot risk dramatically. Third, any pests hiding in wet soil get a free ride indoors in ideal conditions for them to establish.

The goal for November: By early November, your plants should already be indoors and you should be implementing your winter watering schedule. This means dramatic reduction in watering frequency—we're talking once every 3-4 weeks for most situations, possibly longer for fully dormant plants.

November indoor watering strategy: Check soil moisture by inserting your finger 3 inches deep into the soil. If you feel any moisture or coolness, don't water. Wait another week and check again. Also check the caudex—give it a gentle squeeze. If it feels firm (not rock hard, but firm like a tennis ball with slight give), the plant doesn't need water. Only water when soil is completely dry throughout AND the caudex shows early signs of softening or very fine wrinkles.

A common November mistake: Many growers continue something resembling their summer watering schedule through November because "the plant still has leaves" or "it's still in a pot indoors where it's warm." Resist this impulse. Shorter days and lower light intensity mean your plant is using a fraction of the water it consumed in summer, regardless of temperature or leaf presence. Overwatering in November kills more adeniums than anything else during the winter months.

Final Fertilizer Application: The Answer is NONE

Here's one of the simplest but most important items on your November checklist: Do not fertilize your adeniums in November. Period.

This confuses some growers because the plants may still have leaves, may still look healthy, and indoor temperatures remain warm. Surely they still need food, right? Wrong.

Why no fertilizer in November?

Adeniums are preparing for or entering dormancy. Even if they haven't dropped leaves yet, their metabolic processes are slowing down dramatically. They're not actively growing—they're transitioning to a rest state. Fertilizer at this time serves no purpose and creates problems.

The risks of late-season fertilizing:

Forced growth at the wrong time: Fertilizer can stimulate growth when the plant should be resting. This creates weak, etiolated (stretched) growth due to low winter light levels. New growth produced now will be spindly and inferior, and producing it drains energy the plant should be conserving for winter.

Salt buildup: Fertilizer is essentially salt. When you fertilize a plant that's not actively taking up nutrients, those salts accumulate in the soil. This can damage roots and create toxic conditions. During winter when you're watering infrequently, these salts aren't flushed through the soil—they just concentrate.

Increased pest problems: Lush new growth stimulated by fertilizer is candy for pests. Spider mites and aphids particularly love tender new growth. You don't want to encourage pest-friendly conditions as you head into winter.

When was your last fertilization? Ideally, you stopped fertilizing in September or early October. If you fertilized in October, that's acceptable but not ideal. If you're reading this in November and thinking about fertilizing, don't. The next time you'll fertilize these plants is spring—March or April at the earliest, when you see new growth emerging and can move plants back outdoors.

What about plants you're keeping actively growing? If you've made the decision to force winter growth with grow lights and supplemental heat, then yes, you'll continue fertilizing through winter. But understand this is the exception, not the rule. For 90% of adenium growers who are allowing natural dormancy, November through February is a fertilizer-free period.

Soil Check: Prevention Beats Cure

November is an excellent time for a thorough soil inspection on all your indoor adeniums. You're looking for several things that can cause problems through the winter months ahead.

Check for Soil Compaction

Gently probe the soil surface with a chopstick or your finger. The soil should feel loose and friable, not compacted and dense. Compacted soil doesn't drain properly, which is especially problematic during winter when you're watering infrequently. If soil feels compacted:

• Gently aerate the top 1-2 inches with a chopstick or fork, being careful not to damage roots
• Consider repotting in spring with fresh, well-draining cactus mix
• For now, just ensure water drains freely when you do water

Verify Drainage

This is critical. When you water (which should be infrequent in November), watch what happens. Water should soak in within 30-60 seconds and drain freely from the bottom drainage holes within a few minutes. If water pools on the surface or takes more than a couple minutes to drain:

• You have a drainage problem that needs addressing
• Carefully tip the pot and check that drainage holes aren't blocked
• Verify you're using pots with adequate drainage (at least one hole, preferably multiple)
• Plan to repot in spring with better-draining soil mix

Remove Debris and Old Leaves

Clean the soil surface of any fallen leaves, dead plant material, or debris. These create hiding places for pests and can harbor fungal spores. A clean soil surface is healthier and makes inspection easier.

Inspect for Fungus or Mold

Look for any fuzzy white or gray growth on the soil surface, any musty smell, or any discoloration. These indicate excessive moisture or poor air circulation. If you spot fungus:

• Allow soil to dry out completely
• Improve air circulation around the plant
• Remove and replace the top inch of soil if fungus is extensive
• Reduce watering frequency going forward

Check Soil Level

Soil settles over time. The caudex should be sitting at or slightly above the soil line, not buried. If you notice the caudex is now below soil level due to settling:

• Carefully remove some soil to expose the upper caudex
• Buried caudex tissue is prone to rot, especially during dormancy
• The entire fat portion of the caudex should be visible above the soil

Pest Prevention: Your November Defense Strategy

November is prime time for pest prevention because you're catching problems before they become serious winter infestations. The warm, dry indoor environment is paradise for certain pests, so vigilance now saves headaches later.

The November Inspection

Set aside time to thoroughly inspect every single adenium in your collection. Not a quick glance—a genuine, careful inspection. For each plant:

Examine the caudex: Look for any soft spots, discoloration, or unusual marks. The caudex should be uniformly firm and smooth. Any dark, water-soaked looking areas need immediate attention.

Check all stems systematically: Look at every stem joint and crevice. Use a flashlight to illuminate shadowed areas. Look for tiny bumps (scale), white cottony masses (mealybugs), or fine webbing (spider mites).

Inspect remaining leaves: If your plants still have leaves, check both top and bottom surfaces. Leaf undersides are where most pests hide. Look for stippling, discoloration, or tiny moving specks.

The white paper test: For plants you're concerned about, hold white paper under a stem or leaf and tap sharply. Examine the paper for moving specks that might indicate spider mites.

Treatment Protocol for November

If you discover any pests during your November inspection:

Act immediately: Don't wait. Small pest problems become large ones quickly in the warm indoor environment.

Isolate affected plants: Move any plant showing signs of pests away from your main collection immediately. Pests spread rapidly between plants in close quarters.

Treat appropriately: Use insecticidal soap for soft-bodied pests like mealybugs and spider mites. Use horticultural oil for scale. For detailed treatment protocols, refer to our pest prevention article. The key is thoroughness—one treatment rarely eliminates pests completely. Plan on 2-3 treatments spaced 5-7 days apart.

Monitor closely: After treatment, inspect treated plants weekly for the next month to catch any resurgence early.

Preventive Treatment Consideration

Even if you don't see pests, consider a preventive treatment in November if:

• You've had pest problems in previous winters
• Your plants are in a particularly warm, dry indoor environment
• You're housing many plants in close quarters
• You want extra insurance against problems

A single application of neem oil or insecticidal soap in November, even without visible pests, can prevent populations from establishing. Think of it as insurance—not always necessary, but sometimes worth the peace of mind.

Additional November Tasks

Document Your Plants: Take photos of each plant. This creates a visual record of their condition entering dormancy. In spring, you can compare to see how they fared. Photos also help you notice subtle changes you might otherwise miss.

Label Clearly: If you haven't already, label pots with variety names. Dormant adeniums can look remarkably similar, and it's frustrating in spring when you can't remember which is which.

Organize Your Records: Update your plant journal or digital records. Note when each plant came indoors, any treatments applied, and current condition. This information proves invaluable for troubleshooting if problems arise.

Prepare Your Spring Plans: It's never too early. Think about what you want to accomplish next season. Do any plants need repotting? Are you planning to propagate? Want to try new varieties? November's quiet time is perfect for planning.

Check Your Supplies: Verify you have appropriate winter supplies on hand: insecticidal soap or neem oil for pest issues, sulfur powder or fungicide for any rot problems, fresh potting mix for emergency repotting if needed.

The November Mindset: Embrace the Quiet

November marks the beginning of several months when your adeniums need you to do less, not more. The best care you can provide is often simply leaving them alone. Check on them weekly, but resist the urge to water frequently, fertilize, or otherwise fuss over them.

Think of November through February as your adeniums' winter vacation. They're resting, conserving energy, and preparing for the explosive growth they'll put on come spring. Your job is simply ensuring they have safe, appropriate conditions for that rest—cool to moderate temperatures, minimal water, no fertilizer, and protection from pests.

The growers who struggle most with winter adenium care are often those who can't resist doing something. They water too often because it feels wrong not to. They fertilize because surely the plant needs food. They move plants around searching for perfect conditions. All this activity typically causes more harm than good.

November is when you prove you can provide the discipline of benign neglect—watching carefully but acting minimally. Master this, and your adeniums will reward you with vigor and beauty when spring returns.

Final Thoughts

November's adenium checklist isn't long, but every item matters. By now your plants should be safely indoors, transitioning into their winter rest. Your job is verifying they're set up for success—in well-draining soil, pest-free, in appropriate locations, with minimal watering and zero fertilization. Get these fundamentals right in November, and you've done 90% of the work required for successful overwintering. The remaining months are simply maintaining this status quo—watching carefully, watering sparingly, and trusting your plants to do what they've evolved to do: rest, conserve, and prepare for another season of spectacular growth and blooms.

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Questions about preparing your adeniums for dormancy? We're here to help!

Contact us at: contact@americanadenium.com